Kiln, Soho
The Smoking Goat is a restaurant which set everyone’s
tongues wagging for a bit; Ben Chapman’s take on Thai barbecue (alongside Fred
Peihl). They received fantastic review after fantastic review. As someone who,
intentionally, surrounds herself with people sharing my love of food I had repeatedly
been told to visit. The general consensus was I simply had to go.
Whilst I’m yet to try the commended Smoking Goat, I visited
Kiln on Brewer Street recently. It’s founded by Ben Chapman also; the self-taught
chef who used to be a designer.
The Thai Barbecue restaurant is nestled away moments from
the slightly busier surroundings of Carnaby Street, but in the perfect location
for those wanting to avoid anything too touristy. With a no-booking policy for
anything under 4 people, we arrived with an hours wait until we could be
seated; but given it was 7pm on a Saturday night I was expecting a lot longer.
As you walk in, there is a giant metal bar-table separating the
restaurant from the kitchen which is dimly lit throughout.
A trail of young chefs take the stage in-front of diners;
each with certain items on the menu under their control. We’re facing the kiln –
right at the far end on the corner. Perfect for watching over the
kitchen-turned-restaurant.
The atmosphere is perfect; loud enough that you can’t
eardrop people’s conversations, quiet enough to enjoy one another’s company.
The menu changes daily subject to ingredients, but some
items remain and rightly so. It’s recommended that between two, you choose
around 7-8 dishes following a similar style to tapas. My favourite type of
dining, as I’ve mentioned before, is this style; you’re able to try everything
rather than being confined to one dish.
The dishes come out at a steady pace; quick but not
overwhelmingly so. First we’re given the Laos-style pollock, chilli and roasted
rice laap; delicious, tender and very spicy. Whilst spice isn’t necessarily to
my liking; it was delicious. You are able to request the level of spice on each
dish if you please.
The aged lamb and cumin skewer and Mangalitsa Belly &
Brown Crab meat claypot baked noodles came next; the aged lamb was tasty, but
nothing to write home about. Whilst on the other hand, the claypot noodles were
delicious; mixed with a zesty lime sauce on the side the combination of the
salty pork-crab combo noodles and the sauce makes for a fantastic combination
of flavours. I seriously contemplated fighting for the final forkful; it truly
is a must order on the menu.
In one bigger bulk we were given; Southern Style Dry Pork
Curry, Slow Grilled Chicken & Soy, Stir Fried Cornish Greens and Soy and
Brown Jasmine Rice.
Now let me firstly highlight my favourite; the chicken and
stir-fried greens. The sauce both dishes came covered in really is incredible;
I am told the palm sugar included makes the hugest difference in taste. But – I
mean – I would liken the sauce to some kind of highly addictive drug. I
literally scooped, dipped and drizzled everything I could in it. The chicken,
even without the sauce, was moist and flavoursome; the kind of chicken that any
future meals will fail to live up to.
Finally we waited, but my god was it worth it. The Grilled Mangalitsa
Pork Neck; served on a wooden board with a tangy sauce. Honestly, again, it was
a dish which didn’t need the sauce but it perfectly complemented it. Whilst
normally I am not a huge pork eater; the smoky, moreish flavour was the
ultimate winner for me.
We didn’t drink much; but it’s worth noting they do a good
Cab Sav too. Easily drinkable and well-priced.
For two people, 8 dishes, a few drinks and service; it came
to £70. I would of happily paid a lot more for the quality of the food, it
really was fantastic. Personally I cannot wait to go back to Kiln; fantastic
food, the perfect date spot and a brilliant visual experience.
Whilst I will continue to be told to visit The Smoking Goat, and after this experience my attendance is more imminent, I tell you as I was told; You simply must go to Kiln.
This is the perfect example of a cuisine perfected; Kiln you
have a place in my heart forever.
8 Brewer Street, W1
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